This blog was written by Ed Holland, communications officer and creative producer at Musicians Without Borders.
This month I joined the Music Connects team in Mitrovica, a small city in Northern Kosovo. Each year, four of the Music Connects partners–Mitrovica Rock School, Fontys Rockacademie from the Netherlands, Roma Rock School in North Macedonia, and Musicians Without Borders–organize two of these training weeks. They are designed to give the young music students opportunities to learn new skills, to have intensive instrument and workshop sessions, and to welcome new students into the music school.
Often referred to as one of Europe’s “most divided cities”, Mitrovica represents a fault line in the tension between the ethnically Serb and Albanian communities. The city curls around the Ibar, a shallow clear river that winds its way through the countryside. The river separates the majority Serb North and the majority Albanian South. Whilst not blatant to outsiders eyes, the division in Mitrovica reveals itself subtly in every facet of the city. Statues dedicated to both Serb and Albanian national heroes occupy the centers of each side of the city. Many residents of Kosovo simply do not cross the river, preferring the safety of their own community. On my first full day in the city, I decide to walk the journey from one branch of the school to the other; one of my new friends decides to walk with me. A chance for me to get the lay of the land and see some more of Mitrovica. As we walk across the East bridge – the bridge that cars can pass over – I’m enjoying seeing more of the town, taking in the scenery of the dramatic hills, the curve of the river, and the bustle of activity around me. Unbeknownst to me, my new friend has been quiet for the whole walk. As we pass into the other side of the city he tells me “this is the first time I have walked from one side of the city to the other.” He has lived in Mitrovica his whole life.
When I asked the school directors how the week has gone so far, they are relieved to say that it’s going well, all the bands are working well together, the atmosphere is positive, and the creativity is starting to flow. Over coffee I overhear one of the new bands taking a break from their second ever rehearsal together. They are trading favorite artists and coming up with band names together. If I hadn’t known otherwise, there is nothing to say that these students have not been long time school friends. Through the doors of Mitrovica Rock School, politics is left at the door, and young musicians have the space and freedom to be just that: musicians. For the students of Mitrovica Rock School, whilst the school buildings themselves represent a space of absolute safety – an oasis of calm – there are still daily obstacles. To ensure the safety and comfort of each student, MRS staff will drive individual students across the river, an option that’s preferred by most over taking the five-minute walk across the central footbridge that connects the two town centers.
For the Rockacademie students, these training weeks are a chance to build upon their skills from their music degree in the form of workshops, masterclasses, and working with the students on a one-on-one basis. For the Rock School students, the week is a chance to gather new skills, and focus their attention on putting together new material, honing their set, ready for the final performance at the weekend. During this training week, Mitrovica Rock School welcomed a new cohort of students, some of whom are very new to playing music, and almost all of whom have not worked in a band environment before. This is where Mitrovica Rock School comes into its own. The mixed band program puts students into bands made up of musicians from both sides of the city, based on nothing but their previous experience with music. For these musicians, this will be the first time they have ever worked with people from the other side of the river.
Saturday morning, performance day. The sun is beating down on Mitrovica, and I’m relieved to learn that it’s not just me that’s feeling the heat, the students are rushing into shade, clutching ice water. We’re in the North branch, where due to high demand, one-on-one vocal lessons are being improvised with the Rockacademie trainers. Gear for the night’s concert is being loaded in. Despite the heat, energy is up, the musicians are in their element.
By the end of the night, all the bands have performed brand new songs, some of which were written less than 24 hours beforehand. For many of the new students, this is the first time performing in a band in front of an audience, and though the nerves are palpable, every single band is given a huge round of applause by the crowd. At Mitrovica Rock School, everyone supports each other, cheering each other on, sharing tips and tricks.
It was an amazing trip, and an eye-opening experience for me. What struck me most is the strength of the community that has formed around Mitrovica Rock School. Despite being based in one of the most divided cities in Europe, the bond that the school provides runs deep. Teachers that were there at the school’s start in 2008 are still teaching and turning up at concerts. Students that learned to play 15+ years ago at the school are now band coaches, tutors, or directors. The school itself is a vital cultural hub in the city for the local music scene, with many bands from both sides of the river relying on its facilities, equipment, and open welcoming atmosphere. I ask one person how they think Mitrovica would be changed if the school weren’t there. “Impossible” they respond, “This school and Mitrovica are the same thing now. There will always be some version of Mitrovica Rock School, because it has made such a difference to this city.”
